Was Climbing More Authentic Before It Became an Olympic Sport?

 Was Climbing More Authentic Before It Became an Olympic Sport?

The True Spirit of Climbing: Beyond the Olympics

I’ve never been particularly fond of the Olympics, nor have I been a big fan of any organized sports. My fulfillment comes from being active and doing things myself, which is why I became a climber. Climbing allows me to push myself athletically whenever I choose, without the need for a team or event. If my local climbs feel uninspiring, I can always set a new route on the MoonBoard or hike around the hills to find a fresh line and bolt my own project.

This do-it-yourself ethos has always been at the heart of climbing. Innovators like John Salathé and Yvon Chouinard forged their own gear when existing equipment didn't meet their needs. Ray Jardine developed Friends to protect parallel-sided cracks, Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train for Action Directe, and Thomas Huber created the mirrored system wall foundational to modern board climbing. More recently, climbers like Daniel Woods, Giuliano Cameroni, and Shawn Raboutou launched the Mellow YouTube channel to showcase high-end bouldering and sport climbing, free from commercial influence.

Historically, climbers have prided themselves on being independent and standing apart from mainstream society. The recent popularity boom, fueled by gym climbing and films like "Free Solo" and "Dawn Wall," has made climbing more visible, but many of us still value the sport's experiential nature over external validation. Climbing's worth lies in those moments when we give our best efforts despite risk, discomfort, and fear. Olympic medals aren't necessary to validate a truth we've known for centuries.

The inclusion of climbing in the Tokyo 2021 Olympics was exciting, particularly watching Janja Garnbret dominate. However, I find more inspiration in her World Cup performances or her outdoor climbs. If given a choice between watching her win Olympic gold or onsighting two 5.14b routes at Oliana, I'd choose the latter. For a climbing enthusiast like me, there's more to learn from watching a master on rock than on plastic holds.

The Olympics' format in Tokyo was also problematic. Slow-twitch lead climbers struggled on the speed wall, while speed specialists found elite boulders and lead climbs challenging. Although the Paris Olympics have adjusted the format, removing speed from the combined event, I still find it hard to catch Olympic fever.

I don't think the Olympics are ruining climbing, nor do I believe they're flooding gyms and cliffs with inexperienced climbers. The climbing community has grown steadily since around 2010, well before the Olympics. However, I'm unsure if the Olympics are significantly improving the sport either. While they might elevate difficulty standards and provide better training resources, one wonders if elite climbers like Adam Ondra would have achieved more on rock without the distraction of Olympic training.

Ultimately, the problem with declaring that "the Olympics suck" is that it's often rooted in personal biases and insecurities. As climbers, we sometimes dismiss things we're not good at, feel threatened by, or don't consider part of our discipline. While the Olympics might not align with climbing's traditional, independent spirit, they don't necessarily harm the sport. The dedication and skill of Olympic athletes can be inspiring and highlight the difficulty of World Cup and Olympic routes.

However, focusing solely on athleticism and competition risks missing the broader essence of climbing. Climbing has deep roots in the mountains, rich with history, culture, and community. It's about more than just training, grades, or medals.

Recently, I spent a day at the crags with a friend, bolting and cleaning new climbs. We capped the day by leading a new five-bolt 5.10 route in the twilight. It wasn't cutting edge, but it was a pure, fulfilling experience, untethered from the external validation of competition climbing. These "old-school" experiences remain attainable, even as climbing grows more popular.

So, enjoy the Olympics and take inspiration from the athletes. Just remember what you seek from climbing. In the end, it's about your personal journey and the experiences you create.